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                          Winterizing You Vacant Home For The Winter

If you or a client has a vacant home or summer  vacation property on the market this winter, careful  decisions need to be made to prevent expensive repairs  from frozen plumbing. Last spring we inspected an  unusually high number  of homes with damaged plumbing (or worse) due to lack  of, or improper winterization. One client spent well  over $3,000 on plumbing repairs, and then more to repair  the walls, ceiling, and flooring that were damaged by  water and the process of replacing the pipes.  To Winterize, or Not To  Winterize?

Frozen Busted pipe

The simplest solution and least  risky alternative to winterizing is to leave the heating  system running at a minimum setting (with the water  turned off of course). Though it might seem like a waste  of money or energy at first glance, a minimal heating  bill will be less expensive than the cost of potential  repairs if everything were to freeze up. Also, the rigors of  extreme winter temperatures and low humidity in a  winterized home stress the interior of the house  and the appliances. Wood trim and furniture dry out, and  seals in appliances can dry and  crack.    

  As a side note, it is always prudent to turn off the  main water supply or well pump whenever you will be gone  from the home for even a day or two. On properties with  a well, a major leak can cause the well pump to simply  run itself to death in your absence, also causing  significant water damage.        
   Also consider that if the house is on the market, a  cold house will not show well. When a buyer does come  along, it will also need to be de-winterized before a  home inspection can be performed (we know that you will  of course want to have the house inspected by us!).  Extra cost, more delays.  On the other hand, exposed plumbing in some  crawlspaces, or plumbing in homes with no central  heating may be at risk. Some vacation homes were just  not built for winter. In the case of older homes that  are poorly insulated and/or unevenly heated (or just  poorly constructed homes), then winterization may be the  safest bet.  Who Should Do the  Winterization?

 It is true that many homes  are winterized every year without problem, usually by  the owner or a convenient handyman. However, big repairs  bills may result if it is done only half way, or  improperly. If a house is to be winterized, we suggest  that it done by a professional plumber. 
 Basic Steps Needed to Properly Winterize a  Home.

  1. Turn Off Water. The  first step is usually easy; locate and turn off the  main water shut off valve, preferably one that is  outside. If the property is supplied by a well, then  also turn off the breaker to the pump system.
  2. Water Heater. After  the water is off, turn off and drain the water heater.  There are a couple of different procedures that could  be followed to accomplish this step. Temperature  controls on gas water heaters should be set to the Off  position, as well as closing the gas valve. Electric  water heaters should be shut off at the breaker. A  faucet or spigot will need to be opened to allow air  to flow in as water is drained out.
  3. Drain Supply Lines.  Water then should be drained from the entire water  supply system, faucets and fixture shut off valves  left open. If the house is on a well, the pressure  tank should also be drained.
  4.  Blow Out the Water  Supply Lines. Though gravity may  be sufficient to drain the plumbing in many  homes, standing water will remain in some  pipes. Though the  water is not longer under pressure, this  remaining water will freeze and may strain some fittings. CPVC  (plastic, not PEX) would be prone to cracking. We  recommend that water be blown out of the water supply  lines with an air compressor. Many do-it-yourselfers  skip this step, and most get lucky. If the house is to  be winterized by a handy man or plumber, verify their  level of thoroughness by asking if they blow out the  water lines.
                                             Frozen over bathroom
  5. Using special fittings to connect a  compressor to the house plumbing, the water supply  lines would be cleared of water by systematically  closing and opening faucets and valves starting with  plumbing fixtures most distant from the compressor and  working backward.
  6. Other Items to Drain.  Water softeners, filters, and water treatment systems  also need to be drained (the brine tank in a water  softener can usually be ignored).
  7. Anti-Freeze. Once all  the water supply lines are completely empty, flush the  toilets until they are empty, then winterize toilets  and other drain traps by filling them with a special  non-toxic RV type antifreeze solution (pink in color). 
  8. Other Appliances.  Keep in mind that water also runs through  many appliances such as the washing machine and  dishwasher, as well as the water supply line to the  ice-maker in refrigerators. Each one of these will  also need to be drained and/or disconnected. Some  professionals also recommend anti-freeze be poured  into the bottom of the dishwasher and washing machine.  Kitchen Damage
  9. Turn Off Electrical.  Turn off all electrical breakers to appliances as well  as any other unnecessary breakers, and post a reminder  note at the panel to make sure the electric water  heater and other appliances aren’t turned on before  the water is turned on.
  10. Heating systems. You  wouldn't think that a furnace would contain water, but  some do. High-efficiency furnaces (also called  condensing furnaces) generate a significant amount of  condensation from the water vapor in the flue gases.  These systems, as well as air conditioners, have a  condensate drain line. Sometimes the condensate drains  into a floor drain, but if there's no drain available  the condensate drains into a small pump which pumps  the fluid uphill into the plumbing drain. Though there  is less chance of damage, these should also be looked  at.
  11. Special Heating  Systems. If the home has any sort of a more elaborate heating  system such as a hot water boiler, heat pump, or  radiant floor heat, then we recommend VERY strongly  that it be handles by a HVAC professional familiar  with these systems. These heating systems  sometimes circulate water instead of a  freeze-resistant fluid, or may interconnect  with the plumbing system and/or hot water heater. It  should not be assumed that these systems could simply  be turned off without danger of damage from freezing.  We inspected one house with an expensive hot water  boiler system that was severely damaged, and radiators  cracked after the house had been “professionally”  winterized. That professional may have understood  plumbing, but did not understand the heating system.  Caused some problems on that sale.
  12. Warning. Last of all,  post signs in conspicuous locations (“Winterized - Do  Not use Plumbing”) just in case there are unexpected  visitors.
De-Winterization is just as  important. 
When returning to occupy the  house, the entire process must be carefully reversed  (de-winterized), such as turning off faucets and fixture  shut off valves before turning the water supply or well  pump (otherwise you can be in for a rude surprise).  

This article posted by JeyGetzMissoula.com

    
        Water Heater In Attic Won't Stay Lite
                           
It's That Time of Year
         This information Provided By Bradford White Water Heater's

    In some areas of the country, water heaters, both gas and electric, are installed in attic spaces. As with all gas water heater installations, it is very important to have sufficient combustion and dilution air to insure proper drafting of the exhaust products and safe water heater operation.

As outside temperatures increase, the need for proper combustion air and attic ventilation becomes even more critical. For reference, if not ventilated adequately, attic space temperatures can go as high as 160 degrees Fahrenheit. This can occur when outside air temperatures are only in the 90’s; even when the sky is cloudy.         

As the pilot flame burns, it requires oxygen from the air. The exhaust products from the pilot flame are then designed to rise through the combustion chamber and water heater flue, exiting the roof through the chimney system. This "draft", while removing exhaust products, also brings in "fresh" air to the combustion chamber.

For the exhaust gases to rise through the water heater and chimney system, they must have a temperature much greater than their surroundings. Elevated attic temperatures make it extremely difficult, or impossible, for the water heater combustion system to properly "breath". Without the ability to sustain the main burner and pilot flame with fresh air, the pilot flame will become unstable, and may eventually go out. When this occurs, the water heater will not function.

To avoid these water heater outages, proper attic ventilation must be present. Examples of common practices to insure sufficient attic ventilation include soffit vents used in combination with ridge vents and/or mechanical attic exhaust fans which are turned on and off via temperature controls.

Soffit and ridge vents allow for natural convection of the hot attic air to be removed form the attic, and fresh air to enter at or near the floor level of the attic. Mechanical attic exhaust fan systems power the air flow and may cycle on and off as the temperature rises and falls. Both are acceptable and common methods used. However, undersized, blocked or improperly located attic ventilation components result in elevated attic temperatures and possible water heater outages. Consult your local construction and roofing experts for further information about proper attic ventilation.

It's also important to note. This does not just happen with Bradford White Water heaters. For more information call your water heater manufacture on the side of you water heater.            
                                          

                       
Detroit's Water War: a tap shut-off that could impact 300,000 people
                      Article Posted By by Martin Lukacs on The theguardian.com
                              Detroit's Water War: a tap shut-off that

Children in Detroit attending a rally against water shut-offs in the city on June 20, 2014. Photograph: Justin Wedes

It was six in the morning when city contractors showed up unannounced at Charity Hicks' house.

Since spring, up to 3000 Detroit households per week have been getting their water shut-off – for owing as little as $150 or two months in bills. Now it was the turn of Charity's block – and the contractor wouldn't stand to wait an hour for her pregnant neighbour to fill up some jugs.

"Where's your water termination notice?" Charity demanded, after staggering to the contractor's truck. A widely-respected African-American community leader, she has been at the forefront of campaigns to ensure Detroiters' right to public, accessible water.

The contractor's answer was to drive away, knocking Charity over and injuring her leg. Two white policemen soon arrived – not to take her report, but to arrest her. Mocking Charity for questioning the water shut-offs, they brought her to jail, where she spent two days before being released without charge.

Welcome to Detroit's water war – in which upward of 150,000 customers, late on bills that have increased 119 percent in the last decade, are now threatened with shut-offs. Local activists estimate this could impact nearly half of Detroit's mostly poor and black population – between 200,000 and 300,000 people.

"There are people who can't cook, can't clean, people coming off surgery who can't wash. This is an affront to human dignity," Charity said in an interview with Kate Levy. To make matters worse, children risk being taken by welfare authorities from any home without running water.          

Denying water to thousands, as a sweltering summer approaches, might be bad enough in itself. But these shut-offs are no mere exercise in cost-recovery.

The official rationale for the water shut-downs – the Detroit Water Department's need to recoup millions – collapses on inspection. Detroit's high-end golf club, the Red Wing's hockey arena, the Ford football stadium, and more than half of the city's commercial and industrial users are also owing – a sum totalling $30 million. But no contractors have showed up on their doorstep.

The targetting of Detroit families is about something else. It is a ruthless case of the shock doctrine – the exploitation of natural or unnatural shocks of crisis to push through pro-corporate policies that couldn't happen in any other circumstance.

The first shock was the slow disaster that struck Detroit over the last four decades: the flight of corporations toward cheaper, overseas labour; the movement of white, wealthier Detroiters to the suburbs, draining the city's tax base; a Wall Street-driven financial crisis that left many homeless or jobless; and the deliberate starving of the city of funds owed them by the Republican state legislature.
                                     Detroit's Water War:

On its heels has come a round of economic shock therapy: taking advantage of the severe decline in revenue from Detroit's first shock, the media, corporations and right-wing politicians drummed up a crisis of fearabout financial debt. This has become the pretext for a rapid-fire assault on Detroit's public resources: an attempt to dismantle its schools, to slash its pensions, and to transfer its parks and art and land into the hands of private corporations.

The public water system, a prized resource worth billions and sitting on the Great Lakes, is now the latest target – and the water shut-offs are a way to make the balance-sheet more attractive in the lead up to its privatization.

As Detroiters like Charity Hicks have taken a stand, they have been met by a third shock: literal blows of police force and violence, intended to dampen any resistance.

Taking full advantage of Detroit's plight required the removal of another obstacle: democracy. No Detroit politician, subject to the pressures of an electorate, could imagine going after the city's water. But in 2013, using Detroit's debt as his excuse, Michigan's Republican governor Rick Synder imposed an "emergency manger" – a trustee to govern Detroit unilaterally. When Detroiters overwhelmingly voted in a referendum against the "emergency manager" law, Synder passed a new one overnight – with a provision rendering referendums meaningless.

Having made his reign democracy-proof, Detroit's emergency manager has proceeded to drive the city toward bankruptcy. With the bankruptcy dominating media headlines across the country, the real nature of Detroit's crisis has been obscured and ignored. It has left the banks and corporations free to pursue a liquidation of the city's assets. And nothing is off the table.

There is one other way the situation in Detroit would never have come to pass: if this was a city predominantly of white people instead of black. Too much of America views Detroit like the policemen viewed Charity – as deviant, inferior and beyond repair. This racism has meant decades of block-bustingred-lining, police brutality and the legislative punishment of the city. And it has done something more insidious: it has written off the people of Detroit.

"Every day, we're shown that black lives, black quality of life, black communities, don't matter," says Charity.

The attitude was expressed in a recent statement of L Brooks Patterson, the elected executive of the mostly white Detroit suburb of Oakland: "I made a prediction a long time ago, and it’s come to pass. I said, 'What we’re going to do is turn Detroit into an Indian reservation, where we herd all the Indians into the city, build a fence around it, and then throw in the blankets and corn.'"

The US banks and corporations who now have Detroit on the hook want these ugly truths to stay submerged. They haven't flinched while the water has been shut-off. Nor did they flinch when Detroiters' heat was cut – in 2013, before the worst winter on record, 169,407 households were disconnected. But they loudly protested when organizations proposed a tour of the city for the US judge who will rule on Detroit's bankruptcy – that, they insisted, would be too "dangerous."

The view the judge would see is in radical contrast to Detroit's prevailing image: a city with a flowering network of community gardens, more than any in the United States, feeding residents and nurturing solidarity; a rich artistic and musical culture; and neighbourhoods organizing for meaningful education and to restore local democracy. No one denies Detroit is racked by crime, poverty and unemployment – but it is also hard to miss its vibrant renewal.

It is from this incredible web that a challenge to the water shut-offs is emerging. Community organizations have filed a human rights complaint to the United Nations, demanding Michigan state impose a moratorium on the shut-offs. UN experts have already responded critically. There are daily acts of civil disobedience: cars being parked over water valves to prevent shut-offs; neighbours teaching each other to turn the water back on. A new initiative called the Detroit Water Brigade – an Occupy Sandy-style response to disaster zones created by the deprivation of water instead of its excess – is accepting supplies from around the country, opening local service hubs, and coordinating calls to action.

And the Detroit People's Water Board, a broad coalition co-founded by Charity Hicks, continues its work of raising consciousness about water justice and conservation, setting out a vision for water as a public trust, not a commodity – a source of life, not of private enrichment.

"This is a test being looked at by cities across the US - even the world," Charity says. "We will not let water be used as a weapon to remake the city in a corporate image. We will re-establish what it is to live in a democracy, with a water system that is part of the commons, that affirms human dignity and that ensures everyone's access."

Bad Plumbing Brings on Mold Problems

What are molds?

Molds are fungi that can be found both indoors and outdoors. No one knows how many species of fungi exist but estimates range from tens of thousands to perhaps three hundred thousand or more. Molds grow best in warm, damp, and humid conditions, and spread and reproduce by making spores. Mold spores can survive harsh environmental conditions, such as dry conditions, that do not support normal mold growth.

What are some of the common indoor molds?

·         Cladosporium

·         Penicillium

·         Alternaria

·         Aspergillus

How do molds affect people?

Mold damage to your health

Some people are sensitive to molds. For these people, exposure to molds can cause symptoms such as nasal stuffiness, eye irritation, wheezing, or skin irritation. Some people, such as those with serious allergies to molds, may have more severe reactions. Severe reactions may occur among workers exposed to large amounts of molds in occupational settings, such as farmers working around moldy hay. Severe reactions may include fever and shortness of breath. Some people with chronic lung illnesses, such as obstructive lung disease, may develop mold infections in their lungs.

In 2004 the Institute of Medicine (IOM) found there was sufficient evidence to link indoor exposure to mold with upper respiratory tract symptoms, cough, and wheeze in otherwise healthy people; with asthma symptoms in people with asthma; and with hypersensitivity pneumonitis in individuals susceptible to that immune-mediated condition. The IOM also found limited or suggestive evidence linking indoor mold exposure and respiratory illness in otherwise healthy children. In 2009, the World Health Organization issued additional guidance, the WHO Guidelines for Indoor Air Quality: Dampness and Mould  Adobe PDF file External Web Site Icon [PDF - 2.52 MB]. Other recent studies have suggested a potential link of early mold exposure to development of asthma in some children, particularly among children who may be genetically susceptible to asthma development, and that selected interventions that improve housing conditions can reduce morbidity from asthma and respiratory allergies, but more research is needed in this regard.

Where are molds found?

Molds are found in virtually every environment and can be detected, both indoors and outdoors, year round. Mold growth is encouraged by warm and humid conditions. Outdoors they can be found in shady, damp areas or places where leaves or other vegetation is decomposing. Indoors they can be found where humidity levels are high, such as basements or showers.

How can people decrease mold exposure?

Sensitive individuals should avoid areas that are likely to have mold, such as compost piles, cut grass, and wooded areas. Inside homes, mold growth can be slowed by controlling humidity levels and ventilating showers and cooking areas. If there is mold growth in your home, you should clean up the mold and fix the water problem. Mold growth can be removed from hard surfaces with commercial products, soap and water, or a bleach solution of no more than 1 cup of bleach in 1 gallon of water.

If you choose to use bleach to clean up mold:

·         Never mix bleach with ammonia or other household cleaners. Mixing bleach with ammonia or other cleaning products will produce dangerous, toxic fumes.

·         Open windows and doors to provide fresh air.

·         Wear non-porous gloves and protective eye wear.

·         If the area to be cleaned is more than 10 square feet, consult the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guide titled Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings. Although focused on schools and commercial buildings, this document also applies to other building types. You can get it by going to the EPA web site athttp://www.epa.gov/mold/mold_remediation.html External Web Site Icon.

·         Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using bleach or any other cleaning product.



Specific Recommendations:

·         Keep humidity levels as low as you can—no higher than 50%--all day long. An air conditioner or dehumidifier will help you keep the level low. Bear in mind that humidity levels change over the course of a day with changes in the moisture in the air and the air temperature, so you will need to check the humidity levels more than once a day.

·         Use an air conditioner or a dehumidifier during humid months.

·         Be sure the home has adequate ventilation, including exhaust fans.

·         Add mold inhibitors to paints before application.

·         Clean bathrooms with mold killing products.

·         Do not carpet bathrooms and basements.

·         Remove or replace previously soaked carpets and upholstery.

What areas have high mold exposures?

·         Antique shops

·         Greenhouses

·         Saunas

·         Farms

·         Mills

·         Construction areas

·         Flower shops

·         Summer cottages

I found mold growing in my home, how do I test the mold?

Generally, it is not necessary to identify the species of mold growing in a residence, and CDC does not recommend routine sampling for molds. Current evidence indicates that allergies are the type of diseases most often associated with molds. Since the susceptibility of individuals can vary greatly either because of the amount or type of mold, sampling and culturing are not reliable in determining your health risk. If you are susceptible to mold and mold is seen or smelled, there is a potential health risk; therefore, no matter what type of mold is present, you should arrange for its removal. Furthermore, reliable sampling for mold can be expensive, and standards for judging what is and what is not an acceptable or tolerable quantity of mold have not been established.

A qualified environmental lab took samples of the mold in my home and gave me the results. Can CDC interpret these results?

Standards for judging what is an acceptable, tolerable, or normal quantity of mold have not been established. If you do decide to pay for environmental sampling for molds, before the work starts, you should ask the consultants who will do the work to establish criteria for interpreting the test results. They should tell you in advance what they will do or what recommendations they will make based on the sampling results. The results of samples taken in your unique situation cannot be interpreted without physical inspection of the contaminated area or without considering the building’s characteristics and the factors that led to the present condition.

What type of doctor should I see concerning mold exposure?

You should first consult a family or general health care provider who will decide whether you need referral to a specialist. Such specialists might include an allergist who treats patients with mold allergies or an infectious disease physician who treats mold infections. If an infection is in the lungs, a pulmonary physician might be recommended. Patients who have been exposed to molds in their workplace may be referred to an occupational physician. CDC is not a clinical facility. CDC does not see patients, diagnose illness, provide treatment, prescribe medication, or provide referrals to health care providers.

My landlord or builder will not take any responsibility for cleaning up the mold in my home. Where can I go for help?

If you feel your property owner, landlord, or builder has not been responsive to concerns you’ve expressed regarding mold exposure, you can contact your local board of health or housing authority. Applicable codes, insurance, inspection, legal, and similar issues about mold generally fall under state and local (not federal) jurisdiction. You could also review your lease or building contract and contact local or state government authorities, your insurance company, or an attorney to learn more about local codes and regulations and your legal rights. CDC does not have enforcement power in such matters, nor can we provide you with advice. You can contact your county or state health department about mold issues in your area to learn about what mold assessment and remediation services they may offer. You can find information on your state's Indoor Air Quality program at http://www.cdc.gov/nceh/airpollution/indoor_air.htm.

I'm sure that mold in my workplace is making me sick.

If you believe you are ill because of exposure to mold in the building where you work, you should first consult your health care provider to determine the appropriate action to take to protect your health. Notify your employer and, if applicable, your union representative about your concern so that your employer can take action to clean up and prevent mold growth. To find out more about mold, remediation of mold, or workplace safety and health guidelines and regulations, you may also want to contact your local (city, county, or state) health department.

You should also read the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) Guidelines, Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings, athttp://www.epa.gov/mold/mold_remediation.html External Web Site Icon.

I am very concerned about mold in my children’s school and how it affects their health.

If you believe your children are ill because of exposure to mold in their school, first consult their health care provider to determine the appropriate medical action to take. Contact the school’s administration to express your concern and to ask that they remove the mold and prevent future mold growth. If needed, you could also contact the local school board.

CDC is not a regulatory agency and does not have enforcement authority in local matters. Your local health department may also have information on mold, and you may want to get in touch with your state Indoor Air Quality office. Information on this office is available athttp://www.cdc.gov/nceh/airpollution/indoor_air.htm.

You can also read the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guidelines, Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings, at http://www.epa.gov/mold/mold_remediation.html External Web Site Icon. Also, see these Web sites for more indoor air quality tools for schools:

 




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 My Basement Is Flooding And the Rain Won't Stop! 

   Flooded Basements and the rainy season. It's getting close to that time of the year. Are you ready? When was the last time you checked your sump pump? The best way to check your you checked your sump pump? The best way to check your sump pump is  just take a bucket of water or your water holes and let water run down into the Sump pit listen real close see if you hear the pump kick on after that check the discharge were the water should pump out to and come out.

There is plenty you can do right now to make sure you and your house stay dry. And the good news is that you probably don’t have to spend much time or money to do it. Mostly, you want to keep water from pooling on the ground next to your foundation.

Here’s how to do that:

• Clean your gutters and downspouts. If they are clogged, the water will just run down the walls and stay next to the house.

• Extend your downspouts away from the house by attaching the black, corrugated plastic pipe that you can get at any home improvement store. The pipes should extend at least 10 feet away from your house or any other structures.

• Regrade around the perimeter of your home to promote positive drainage away from your foundation. You can shovel compacted soil along the below-grade walls to create at least a two-inch-per-foot slope against the foundation. You can then cover that soil with organic topsoil mix and mulch to make it more attractive and then add plants.

• Check to make sure that no soil is covered siding or brick veneer as this may introduce water on top of the foundation wall and into your basement.

• Be especially mindful of places where two walls intersect, creating an inside corner (such as the place where your chimney meets your house at ground level). These spots are notorious for erosion.

• If you have a sump pump, make sure it’s working by opening the cover and pulling up on the float. You should then hear the motor running. If it does not run, make sure it’s plugged into an outlet and check your circuit breakers. If it still doesn’t work, have it replaced.

• Make sure the sump pump discharge pipe exiting your house is extended far away from your foundation walls to avoid having that same water infiltrate back into your foundation drainage system. You can use the same type of plastic pipe that you used to extend your downspouts.

• You can also buy a backup power source for your sump pump. If you lose electricity in a big storm, you can still keep the water from rising up through the foundation of your house.

• If you have outside steps leading down to a basement, make sure the drain at the base of the steps is free and clear of debris. Often, in older homes the drain is very small and easily clogged.

• If you have window wells for below-grade windows, remove any debris and buy a clear plastic cover to keep rain and debris out.

 
Toilet Rodeo
 Yeehaa!
Fix That Toilet, Fix That Rocky Toilet And Let Us Show You How

   This video is focused on the toilet flange being extra long to make a solid connection to a 4"PVC pipe in the ground that has been cut too short. In this video I would be showing you guys how making your own extension flange, because to go to any hardware store or supply house this flange would be very hard to find. But with a little trick we can make our own with a PVC 4*3 toilet flange and 1-3"PVC coupling and save a lot of time trying to find one already made up 
   

                
Toilet Flange Install New Repair Flange To Lead Pipe





These are some of the most watched toilet flange repair videos on YouTube. If you're having problems with a rocky or loose toilet or even a toilet floor that has been damaged throughout the years due to water soaking into the wood floor or a cement floor that one-level there is something in these videos that will help you make the those Much needed repair that need to be fixed. You don't have to search all over the internet trying to find the right video or how to information. It's all right here just click the video that fits your problem. It can be very difficult going through all the information out here this makes it a little easier.